Bigfoot owls?

Eleven p.m. The last park of the evening. Gus busts out of the back door and pops into his hey-who's-out-there huff and puff. An owl howls in the north from the dark woods down the hill.

Mr. Henry leaps off the short wooden step and hits the "pea garden" running. He slides under my wooden arbor-seat with a rooster-tail of pea stone, turns and sits. What's that?!

The owl hoots again, this time a bit closer. Gus hops a few feet on stiff front legs and puffs his chest in his best act of protection. He throats a deep bark, yet holds his ground. Henry shrinks further under the seat.

The air feels like fall. I am glad for my hoodie, figuring I'm going to have to wait Henry out before he feels safe enough to park. I don't mind lingering. I look up. The past-new-moon sky is brilliant; after a few days of rain it is nice to be in awe of the Milky Way again.

The owl continues with a long, drawn out whoooo-who-hoot-whoooo! It seems even nearer. Gus woofs louder and my imagination goes wild. Is something rustling there in the brush? Why does an image of Bigfoot pop into my head?

Henry darts out beyond the pea garden onto the grass, pees and heads for the door. I don't mind that he parks on the grass this time.

Let's go inside!  Gus whips around and beats us in.

I doubt that Henry totally emptied his bladder. He wakes me with a whimper at 4 a.m. When I take him out the sky is clouded over and all is still. He uses the pea garden this time.

Lucky me

First night

     last park: 11 pm

     first, second and third park: 2 am, 4:30 am, 6 am

Second night

     last park: 11 pm

     first and second park: 4 am, 6:30 am

Last night

     last park: 11pm

     first park: 6:30 am!

Good boy Henry!

A sleepy FLD Henry.

Meanwhile...

...back at the "patch," Mr. Peabody is at it again.

My sweetheart applies sopping pressure as we clean up the dribble-trail to the back door. Thank heavens for Nature's Miracle!

To be fair, FLD Dutch tried to tell me he had to "park." I just missed the cue. When I didn't go with him to the back door, he ran back to the kitchen to get me, but couldn't quite hold it on the way! He spun around and bolted back to the door. I caught a golden blur from the corner of my eye and followed his trail. Got him outside so he could finish the job, but not in time to prevent a mess.

I'm learning.

Dutch goes out every time he wakes up from a nap, no matter how short. Dutch goes out after play-time with Gus. Dutch goes out 10 minutes after drinking. I ask Dutch to "park" before he gets into the van, and after he gets out. And at least every hour when I'm out and about with him.

Sometimes his cues are subtle--a whimper, or merely standing at the x-pen gate which blocks the foyer. Other times he gives a sharp bark. The good thing is, he sleeps through the night without a problem.

The poor little guy just has a small bladder!

Tuesday's Training TIP: Learning

FLD Dutch is nine-weeks-old today. We've had him just over one week. He came to us already knowing how to SIT before being fed (although we need to work on holding that sit) and petted. And he's not too bad on a leash. Well, he's not afraid of it and doesn't fight it.

Dutch is learning every minute! I plan at least two short "training sessions" every day, but really, a young pup is like a sponge. Here's a list of some things he's learning every day:

1. name recognition--He's getting that pretty well, although when I started teaching him "touch" I discovered his name sounds like the command. He loves to run and find me when I call his name from another room.

2. sit--As I said, we're working on duration. He's learned to give me eye contact before he can bolt to his food dish, so we're making progress. He also sits before having the leash clipped on. We've also started working on "sit" from the "down" position.

3. wait--That coincides with the sit before meals, but also before I open his crate door so he's not rushing out like a banshee.

4. touch--He's catching on to this one so much so that whenever my hands are near he touches his nose to them!

5. leave it--I've started adding the "leave it" verbal cue and surprisingly he's responded to it a few times when he was trying to get into something he shouldn't, like the computer cords under Andy's desk.

6. park--He doesn't whip his head around to look at me anymore when I say "good park" as he's peeing--maybe he figures it doesn't get him a treat. Repetition is my friend. I'm learning his signals, and a few times he's headed for the back door on his own!

7. settle--Not sure he's "getting" this, but he does settle down pretty quickly when I stay after him. He loves his crate and settles in right away at night.

8. loose leash walking--Instead of only working on this when I'm out and about with him, I've taken to short walks in our driveway or down our road. Just to work on keeping a loose leash. I'm positive this will help. If he can't do this at home, he can't do it anywhere else!

9. stairs--He has no problem up or down the few steps out the back door. He needed some encouragement down our basement stairs, but raced right up them on the way back--he was off leash, so not a problem.

FLD Dutch is learning much more than I've listed. He's learning to leave our old crabby dog, Gypsy, alone and that cc'd Gus is okay to play with. He's learning to not chew on things that aren't Nylabone or Kong toys. Actually, he is learning so much it makes me dizzy!

He is even learning "down." Here is a short video showing his progress. I've been working with him several times a day for a few days and you can see how quickly he can learn!

Tuesday's Training TIP: CONTROLLING WHAT GOES IN

FLD Gus is four months old today.

I have to admit that his potty-training progress has frustrated me more than my last two Future Leader Dog puppies.  Oh--Gus never had a #2 accident in the house, and within the first two weeks he learned to signal when he felt the need, but as diligent as I have been in taking him out to "park," he still had #1 accidents long after I expected him to be able to control himself.

I took FLD Gus out whenever he woke up, got out of his crate, finished a play or training session, or drank a lot of water; I also limited his water intake late in the evening.  He did fine sleeping all night and he never messed in his crate.  Problems occurred during the day, but I couldn't figure out exactly why; he seemed to "leak" without even realizing it.

I wondered if he was drinking too much (he typically laps and laps until all the water is gone from his bowl), or if something else was going on.

When I took FLD Gus to Leader Dogs for the Blind for his last round of puppy shots on Friday, November 12, I asked Dr. Wilson what she thought.  She ruled out a physical problem since he was able to hold his bladder throughout the night.  Instead, she explained that his young muscles are still developing control; because he drinks so much his bladder fills and he probably realizes too late that he has to "park."

How much water should he drink in a day? I asked.

"A good rule of thumb is one ounce for every pound of weight," she answered, and went on to suggest that I measure out a day's worth of water in a pitcher and use the pitcher to fill his bowl.

FLD Gus weighted in at 26 pounds, so he only needed 26 ounces of water!  That's just over three glasses.  I'm sure I was filling his bowl with much more than that every day!  Dr. Wilson reminded me to be sure that Gus drinks water with his meals and when he's done playing or heated up from exercise. 

Eleven days later and I can't remember when FLD Gus had his last "accident." I've also noticed that he is more insistent in getting my attention when he has to go.  (He whines and stands by the door.)  YIPPEE!

These are the steps I've taken to help Gus gain control and eliminate accidents:

• I still take Gus out to "park" every time he wakes up, gets out of his crate, ends a play session, or drinks from his bowl.

• I pay closer attention to when and how much FLD Gus drinks during the day.  I fill his bowl (it holds more than eight ounces) in the morning, at least once or twice during the day, and at his evening meal.

• When the water bowl is empty after dinner, I give Gus a small ice cube if he wants to drink.  This gives him something to play with and satisfies his thirst without taking in too much water.

• If I can't be in the same room with him during the day, he spends time in his crate.  Of course, I take him to  "park" as soon as he comes out.

• When I take FLD Gus to public places, he "parks" before getting into the van, when he gets out of the van, and sometimes once again before we enter the store or restaurant or other building, especially if we parked far away.  He "parks" again upon exiting, and again before going back into the house.

I probably expected too much from this little guy a little too early, but now that I'm controlling what goes IN, FLD Gus seems to be doing a better job controlling what comes OUT!

As I finished typing this post, I heard howling and desperate yipping from a crated-FLD Gus.  I took him outside and he "parked"--for a VERY long time.  Unfortunately, it is extremely windy today, and Gus's "sprinter" stance (right rear paw tucked under his belly, left rear paw stretched out behind) led to a very wet right rear paw.  I know--too much information!

FLD Gus thinks, "I'm JUST a puppy!"

A TIP for Tuesday: POOP REPORT

"Everything came out just fine.  And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the Saturday morning Poop Report," my husband, Andy, cheerily announced last weekend as he brought FLD Mike in after his first "park" of the day.  (Click here to view a list of definitions of words and commands like "park.")

We live in a townhouse, so potty-time is on-leash in a corner of our common area.  While taking the dogs out like this can be annoying in a heavy rain (or in minus-zero wind-chills), it forces us to "cleanup" right away.  If we had a fenced-in backyard and could let the dogs go out alone, procrastination would get the best of me and cleanup would soon get out of hand.

Andy takes the morning "dootie;" for the most part I am in charge of the rest of the day.  Every morning it is the same routine:  Andy grabs a couple of recycled grocery bags and takes Gypsy out first; FLD Mike waits in his crate until it is his turn to "park."  Afterwards, Andy makes coffee; I come downstairs and ask, How did they doo?

Without going into further detail, suffice to say that I don't think I'm the only dog-owner who monitors the health of the family pet (and Future Leader Dog) through a close watch on bodily functions.  But knowing what the dogs have done at their first "dootie" gives me a heads up on their schedule as the day unfolds.

NORMAL:  both #1 and #2 accomplished.

This means that after feeding the dogs, I don't expect to have to take them out again for a few hours.  (FLD Mike is now nine-months old and very reliable.)  Our "normal" daily routine is this:

• First "park" between 6:00 am and 7:00 am.
• Second "park" is mid-morning, usually between 10:00 am and noon, when I take the dogs out for a walk.  Both #1 and #2 again.  Any later than that, and I pay attention when FLD Mike gets restless--he's been patient long enough, let's go!  (He waits for me, but still, it is my responsibility to meet his needs.)
• The rest of the day depends on what we do.  I always "park" them if Andy and I leave the house for any reason, and then again when we return.  FLD Mike gets "parked" before I take him inside a store, restaurant, class, or puppy-outing.  This usually results in just a #1.  If we stay around the house, I might not take them out again until after dinner; again, typically just a #1, but I might get another #2 out of FLD Mike.  If it is hot and I notice a lot of drinking after our walk, I will take them out again within an hour or so for #1.
• A last "park" of the night just before bed; usually just #1, occasionally another #2.  This can be anytime between 9:30 pm and 11:00 pm.

ANYTHING NOT NORMAL:  rarely, but sometimes one or the other dog doesn't do a #1 or a #2 right away in the morning.  Or, a #2 is anything but a firm, defined stool (I know, TMI!).

• This means that I'll need to keep a close watch and be prepared to make a trip outside before our "normal" mid-morning "park."
• If the #2 is "abnormal" I take note of the next #2 to be sure that everything is ok.

Recently, a new puppy-raiser asked me, "How do I get my puppy to tell me when he has to go?  He still has accidents."  She's had her three-month old puppy for a month.  "Someone once told me to teach him to ring some bells on the back door when he has to go out.  What do you think about that?"

Questions like these are pertinent, yet I struggle to give her a simple answer.  Potty-training a puppy is less about teaching him to let you know "when he has to go," and more about teaching him bladder- and bowl-control.

Approached this way, it is the human's responsibility to "read" the puppy when he is about to relieve himself, get him outside in time, and manage his input and output schedule.  The puppy needs to learn that relieving himself INSIDE is INAPPROPRIATE behavior; holding himself to go OUTSIDE is GOOD behavior.  Teaching him this is a front-end-loaded effort (read more about potty-training specifics at my TIPS from April 13 and April 20).  I reiterate what my trainer-friend Katie says:  "A couple weeks of intense effort will pay off with years of pleasant co-habitation with your dog."

As for teaching a puppy to ring bells at the door?  Those bells might well be your puppy demanding:  "I want to go out.  NOW."  It seems to me that your puppy learns to train YOU.  Wouldn't you rather have a puppy that understands he must control himself and relieve himself on YOUR schedule?  Make the effort to teach your puppy, and you will!

A Tip for Tuesday: PUPPY POTTY TRAINING, step two

As your puppy learns to control his bodily functions, it is inevitable that he (for reading ease, I will use "he" instead of "he/she") will have accidents in the house.   (Catching him "in the act" is the best way for him to understand what is not acceptable.)

CLEAN-UP IS CRUCIAL

Many dog-owners use vinegar, but even though vinegar removes the urine odor from our noses, it won't from your puppy's nose.  He will still be able to smell it, and he will pee where he smells pee.  The best product to use to remove the odor completely is a natural enzyme cleaner, such as Nature's Miracle.

EXTENDING ACCESS

After your puppy is controlling himself in the restricted area, you can begin to expand access to the rest of the house.  This doesn't mean that you can never bring your puppy into the living room, say, if you've been keeping him in the kitchen.  Just supervise him at all times; he might have an accident.  If you are paying close attention and catch him "thinking" about going, you've taken a big step in demonstrating that "in the house" (not just the kitchen) is off-limits.  Gradually introduce other areas of the house.  I guarantee that the first time he goes upstairs (or down in the basement) he will "go," no matter how well he's been doing on the main floor.

A note here about male puppies:  when you take him out to pee, don't let him near a vertical object like a bush or a tree.  Even though a very young puppy won't "lift" his leg initially, you'll want to avoid giving him the opportunity.  Let him get used to peeing without anything around and he will be less likely to lift his leg to "mark" later.  If he does try to mark in the house, correct him with a stern "NO" just as you would when you catch him going potty and take him outside.  Another technique is to put some coins in a can and tape the opening shut.  When the puppy is about to potty, drop the can near him (not AT him) so he is startled.  Do this discreetly--the idea is to make him think it's the "house" that is startling him, not you.  As soon as he is distracted from the act, rush him outside to finish the job.  Remember to praise him when he's done!

TIMING

Puppies should be brought out to potty 15 to 20 minutes after eating or drinking and EVERY TIME they come out of their crate, wake up from a nap, and after playtime.  It is possible to train your puppy to potty on a schedule that works for you, instead of waiting for him to "tell you" when he has to go.

MORE ABOUT CRATE TRAINING

PREVENTING ANXIETY

When your puppy is very young, keep the crate in his restricted area during the day with the door open.  He will most likely start to go in it to take a nap.  Periodically put him in his crate while you are at home, instead of just when you leave.  This will give him confidence that going into his crate doesn't mean "My people are leaving!"

GETTING HIM INTO THE CRATE

The crate should be your puppy's "safe" place; don't put him in the crate for "punishment" or raise  your voice when you put him in it.  Many trainers recommend throwing treats into the crate, I've found that putting the puppy in the crate matter-of-factly from the very first moment causes the puppy to think that this is life as normal.  Give a command such as "kennel up" every time you put him in his crate.  Before you know it, he will run right in when he hears "kennel up!"  (For safety, remove your puppy's collar whenever he is in his crate.)

Give your puppy some toys to occupy him while he's in his crate.  Hard chew toys are best, like Nylabones or Kongs.  You can put a soft bed in the crate, but if your puppy has a party and rips it apart, he should lose that privilege!

GETTING HIM OUT OF THE CRATE

Never let your puppy out of his crate when he is barking or whining.  Wait until he is quiet.  When he learns to "sit" on command, tell him to "SIT" before you open the door.  (Remember, he is learning to sit each time he gets fed.)  If he starts to get up from his sit, shut the door and say "NO."  When he sits, praise him, then open the door again.  He should not get up to exit until you release him with "OK."

Never let your puppy out of the crate as soon as he sees you in the morning, or when you come home.  Let him settle down from several minutes to 10 or 15 minutes.  Ignore him so he learns he must wait for you--this shows him that your are his leader.  If he carries on in the crate, toss the coin-filled can near the crate to distract him.  Or leave the room.  It is important not to give any attention when he is misbehaving in his crate.  In your puppy's eyes, getting yelled at is still getting the attention he craves.

A TIP for Tuesday: PUPPY POTTY TRAINING, step one

A new puppy comes home.  Do these things first!

• Buy an appropriately sized crate.  This is your most important tool!  (More about crate training later.)

 If you get a large breed puppy, buy a crate that has an expandable divider.  The crate should just be big enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around.  If the crate is too large, your puppy will learn to potty at one end.  Your puppy has a natural instinct to keep his (or her) sleep area clean.  Never use the crate for punishment; the crate should always be your puppy's special place.  Always crate your puppy at night and whenever you are not home.

• Buy a buckle collar and an inexpensive leash.

Your puppy will need to learn how to behave on a leash; the best way to teach this is to let your puppy drag a leash around (hence the cheap leash--you won't be mad when he chews it up).  The leash also makes a good "handle" to catch him when he shows signs of needing to potty.

• Select a small area in your home to first contain your puppy.

Select a room, like your kitchen, to block off at first, or you can buy an adjustable plastic pen (highly recommended!) to section off part of a room if it is big.  Think about where you will spend most of your time, or where it will be easiest to clean up after your puppy, and plan to keep your puppy there.

• Design a feeding and potty schedule you can live with. 

Puppies have little bladders, and less control.  Expect them to potty 15-20 minutes after drinking or eating.  Puppies will only be able to hold themselves in the crate for one hour plus one hour for each month of age (an eight week old puppy might only be able to hold himself for 1 plus 2 hours).

At eight weeks old, puppies should be fed three times a day.  Monitor food and water intake.  Don't be afraid to limit water after 7:00pm--or you'll be up more times per night to take your puppy out to pee!


It is important to be consistent and persistent!  As my friend Katie says, "A couple weeks of intense effort will pay off with years of pleasant co-habitation with your dog."


SOME KEY RULES

Keep your attention on your puppy!

• If you cannot devote your entire attention to your puppy, he must be contained, crated, or tied to you by a leash.

• NEVER leave your puppy unattended after eating or drinking--what goes in will come out--it's a perfect opportunity for learning.

Contain

• Your puppy must EARN the right to roam the rest of the house.  He must be accident-free in the smaller initial area before expanding access to the rest of the house.  Just because your puppy won't potty in the kitchen (if that is the initial area), doesn't mean he understands that the living room is not a bathroom.  Expect to backtrack training as access is allowed.

Communication is YOUR responsibility!

•   YOU must learn to read your dog for signals he has to potty.

• Your puppy will learn by making mistakes, so you must be able to "catch" him in the "act."  Or better yet, just BEFORE.  A stern NO, sweep the puppy up and get him outside where you want him to potty, stand in one place (he should be on a leash) and give a command.  Leader Dogs teach us puppy-raisers to say "park" to our Future Leader Dogs.  I knew one lady from England who taught her puppy to "spend a penny."

• Remember to PRAISE your puppy when he pottys outside.  Be careful using treats, your puppy will learn to "fake it" just for the treat!

• If your puppy doesn't potty within the time you are willing to stand there, put him in his crate when you return inside.  Leave him in the crate for 15 minutes, then take him outside and try again.  DO NOT LET HIM FREE UNTIL HE POTTYS!  If you are consistent with this, he will learn quickly.